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Terno or Filipiniana Sleeve Tutorial: Mastering the Art of Patternmaking

The Terno, an iconic piece of Filipino fashion, is celebrated for its elegance and distinctiveness, particularly its butterfly sleeves. Whether worn for formal occasions or as a part of traditional celebrations, the Terno stands as a testament to Filipino culture. This article will walk you through the process of creating the Terno or Filipiniana sleeves, guiding you through the essentials of patternmaking.

Understanding the Terno and Its Components

The Terno is a traditional Filipino dress that features unique sleeve designs known for their voluminous shapes and intricate details. The distinguishing characteristic of the Terno is its structured silhouette paired with graceful fluidity.

Key Features of the Terno:

1. Butterfly Sleeves: Often large and exaggerated, these sleeves can be designed in various styles, ranging from soft curves to bold angular shapes.
2. Fitted Bodice: The body of the dress is usually snug, offering a contrast to the voluminous sleeves.
3. Length Variability: Ternos can be tailored to different lengths, from full gowns to knee-length dresses.

Materials You Will Need:

• Pattern paper
• Measuring tape
• Rulers (straight and curved)
• Pencil and eraser
• Fabric of choice (usually satin, cotton, or silk)
• Sewing supplies (thread, needles, scissors)

Step-by-Step Patternmaking for the Terno Sleeve

1. Taking Measurements

Start by gathering essential measurements, which include:

• Bust
• Waist
• Hip
• Sleeves’ length
• Shoulder width

2. Drafting the Basic Sleeve Block

To create the Terno’s distinctive sleeve, first draft a basic sleeve block.

• Width: Use your armhole measurement + 2-3 inches for ease.
• Length: Decide how long you want the sleeves to be.

Steps:

• Draw a rectangle based on your width and length measurements on the pattern paper.
• Divide the rectangle into two halves, tracing a gentle curve for the armhole.
• Add ease by making the outside edge of the sleeve flare out, creating a more dramatic look.

3. Designing the Butterfly Sleeve

Once you have the basic sleeve block, it’s time to make the iconic butterfly shape.

• Design: From the outer edge, draw voluminous curves that widen as they approach the shoulder seam. This can take numerous forms depending on whether you prefer a more traditional or modern feel.
• Cut: Carefully cut out the sleeve shape, making two patterns—one for the outer sleeve and one for the lining if necessary.

4. Adding Details

Consider adding design elements like ruffles, pintucks, or lace trimmings to enhance the beauty of your Terno sleeves. These can be added in the cutting process or be separately attached in later sewing stages.

5. Preparing for Cutting Fabric

Once your patterns are finalized, lay them onto the fabric:

• Pin down the pattern ensuring it aligns with the grain of the fabric.
• Mark any notches or guidelines that will help in sewing later.

6. Sewing the Sleeves

• Start with the fabric pieces aligned and right sides together.
• Sew along the seams of the sleeves, then turn them inside out.
• Hem the edges for a clean finish.

7. Attaching the Sleeves

The final step involves joining the sleeves to the bodice. Align the shoulder seams carefully, gathering the fabric slightly to create the dramatic flare of the butterfly sleeve.

8. Finishing Touches

Press the sleeves and bodice to smoothen any pleats, ensuring they drape beautifully. Add any final embellishments, such as beadwork or embroidery, to give it a personal touch.

Conclusion

Creating Terno or Filipiniana sleeves involves patience and creativity, but the outcome is a stunning piece that reflects cultural heritage and personal style. By mastering the art of patternmaking for these unique sleeves, you’ll not only appreciate their beauty but also gain the satisfaction of crafting a clothing item with a rich tradition.

Whether it’s for a special event or adding to your wardrobe, creating a Terno is a rewarding journey through Filipino fashion. So, roll up your sleeves, gather your materials, and embrace the art of Filipino design!